Ask a Somm: What Kind of Wine Pairs With Holiday Desserts?

For anyone with a sweet tooth.

Welcome to Ask a Somm, a column in which experts from across the country answer questions about wine.

Restaurateur Stephane Bombet and Francois Renaud, the team behind Los Angeles' Frenchie-California Terrine, last month debuted their second effort, Viviane, with culinary efforts helmed by former Faith & Flower chef Michael Hung. Set within Beverly Hills' Avalon Hotel, Renaud here too oversees all beverage operations and, unsurprisingly, his wine list leans heavy on California and France. Just like Hung's seasonal eats. Below, Renaud discusses drinks to pair with holiday-appropriate sweets.

Q: What kind of wine is best to pair with holiday desserts?

Renaud: For some reason, desserts and wine always leave people quite puzzled and dry in the mouth. Most revert to that old battle horse, port, to save the day. Or some bubbles for pep. It might work, mind you, but holiday desserts, with their winter spice and big, full frontal flavors, present another struggle. Not to worry, all that is required is a little imagination and a healthy dose of holiday spirit(s).

The Ubiquitous Apple Pie

This should be simple, and what matters is the apple, and the spice. Going French, with a little spice, a lot of butter and crème fraîche on the side, calls for Pommeau, which is a blend of two thirds unfermented apple juice and one third young Calvados. It is beautifully round and sweet, with ground almond notes, and a baked apple finish. Lemorton makes a wonderful one, and it works well with a touch of cinnamon spice as well. For a pie with more spice, say mace, or nutmeg, I reach straight for LeMorton Reserve Calvados ($55).

Carrot Cake

The carrot cake Kris Morningstar makes at Terrine has cinnamon, cream cheese frosting, dates, walnuts, and vanilla. Delicious, but a nightmare to pair. A 1985 Rivesaltes from Domaine Le Vieux Chêne ($90) in the Roussillon (a blend of Maccabeu, Malvoisie, Grenache Gris and Noir) comes to the rescue. It cuts through the sugar with woody notes that lifts the dates and walnuts, and dances in your mouth.

Pecan Pie

I immediately think of enjoying pecan pie with a football game. I like the bottle-fermented Gavroche French Red Ale from Brasserie de St-Sylvestre ($9) in the French Flanders. Hoppy, with maple, citrus, toasted coffee bean, and a nice head, it really wraps around the pie, both in terms of texture and flavors, and totally brings out the pecan notes of the desserts while taming the sweetness.

Chocolate

For me there is only one (fortified) wine that does chocolate justice, even more so when you add cherries or red berries. And that is Maury, a Vin Doux Naturel from the Roussillon made from Grenache. Of course there is Mas Amiel ($80), but my favorite right now is "Le Passage" from Philippe Gayral, with its bright notes of citronella, blackcurrant, toffee, and a touch of pine needle on the finish. This makes the chocolate flavors literally explode on your palate.

It's Always About the Cheese

I cannot imagine the holidays without cheese, in any shape or form. With a holiday platter of mixed cheeses, especially French, Spanish Basque, or Sicilian, rich with nuts and dried fruit, try the Rivesaltes Rancio from Grand Guilhem ($35) made in the Roussillon from Grenache Gris and Noir, showing glowing notes of light spice and nuts.

For blue cheese, which, for me screams the holidays, especially when associated with puff pastry and pears, I cannot stay away from the Le Clos de la Bergerie, Coteaux du Layon ($24) and its bright notes of orchards and quince finish. You cannot have enough Chenin Blanc in your life, by the way.

Sweet Potato and Pumpkin

This is where you go sweet or nutty. Think Rieslings, Gewürztraminer, or an aged Madeira. Chef Michael Hung at Viviane offers a luscious Sweet Potato Coffee Pudding with ginger, Asian pears, ice milk and garam masala. It works best with Rieslings that balance acid and sweetness such as the Meulenhof Erdener Treppchen Kabinett ($15) with sweet notes of apple blossoms and Asian spice.

Have a wine-related question you'd like answered? Hit the comments.

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